With pinot grigio, as with many other wines, the country that pioneered the varietal no longer has a lock on making it. Indeed, in our most recent test of 21 low-priced bottles of this crisp white wine, most of the Italian pinot grigios were merely good overall. Meanwhile, the two excellent bottles were from the U.S. and Australia respectively, and Italy claimed only one of the very good offerings, the rest being from the U.S.

Pinot grigios can have one of two basic personalities or a mix of both. Old-World-style wines (pinot grigio) , named for the growing regions of Italy, tend to be dry, light, and tart—critics even say they taste like "lemony water" or the wine equivalent of light beer. New World wines (pinot gris) reflect a fuller-bodied, more intense, slightly sweeter and fruitier style popularized by American and Australian vineyards. However, those lines were blurred for many of the wines we tasted. In fact, most of our Quick Picks (available to subscribers) were a mix of Old and New World styles, a blending that's a growing trend in pinot grigio.

Like most whites, pinot grigio pairs well with lighter foods. Fish, shellfish, pasta, and chicken are reliable bets, but also try a glass with a Thai, Chinese, or Indian dish, especially with off-dry examples of the varietal.