July 2008
How to choose
Composite decking is improving with added UV and mildew inhibitors. Indeed, a few from our 2004 report deteriorated markedly
after four years outdoors. For wood, you needn't spend top dollar. Our highest scorer was the Iron Woods Ipe, a hard tropical
wood that fetches roughly $800 per 100 square feet. But the Thompsonized Southern Yellow Pine did almost as well for $225
per 100 square feet and outscored our $825 clear cedar.
See Types to decide which decking matches your needs. Then check our Quick Picks (available to subscribers) for decking that combines performance and value. Here's what else to keep in mind:
Weigh all the costs. You can save hundreds by replacing the decking yourself. Along with a circular saw, you'll need a corded or cordless drill. Don't scrimp on support joists if you choose heavier composites or less-rigid plastics. For wood, spending more for stain typically yields longer-lasting results.
(Note that the prices in the Ratings (available to subscribers) are just for the planks you walk on. The cost of railings, stairs, and supporting structure isn't included. The prices also don't include labor costs, either to build a new deck or replace worn planking on an existing structure. The cost of labor can easily exceed the cost of the materials.)
Be sure the style of the deck material complements the house design. The width of the decking, its color and finish, and the design of the railing become important design elements. A ranch, a raised ranch, or contemporary house style can work well with many deck designs. It's more challenging to make a deck work with older styles, such as Tudor, colonial, or 1920s bungalow. Many manufacturers of synthetic decking offer a variety of railings, such as provincial or Mission style, that can help the deck fit with the rest of the house.
Sidestep the usual goofs. To avoid splitting planks, drill pilot holes for nails, countersink screws in wood, and predrill screw holes in composite. Choose zinc-coated or other corrosion-resistant fasteners, and use the right fasteners for composites. Also consider hidden fasteners or systems that hide the attachment. Before staining, pressure-wash or brush the old surface with a cleaning solution or mix 1 quart bleach and 3 quarts water. Use as many coats as the maker recommends. And be sure it's at least 50° F from the time stain is applied until it dries completely.
See Types to decide which decking matches your needs. Then check our Quick Picks (available to subscribers) for decking that combines performance and value. Here's what else to keep in mind:
Weigh all the costs. You can save hundreds by replacing the decking yourself. Along with a circular saw, you'll need a corded or cordless drill. Don't scrimp on support joists if you choose heavier composites or less-rigid plastics. For wood, spending more for stain typically yields longer-lasting results.
(Note that the prices in the Ratings (available to subscribers) are just for the planks you walk on. The cost of railings, stairs, and supporting structure isn't included. The prices also don't include labor costs, either to build a new deck or replace worn planking on an existing structure. The cost of labor can easily exceed the cost of the materials.)
Be sure the style of the deck material complements the house design. The width of the decking, its color and finish, and the design of the railing become important design elements. A ranch, a raised ranch, or contemporary house style can work well with many deck designs. It's more challenging to make a deck work with older styles, such as Tudor, colonial, or 1920s bungalow. Many manufacturers of synthetic decking offer a variety of railings, such as provincial or Mission style, that can help the deck fit with the rest of the house.
Sidestep the usual goofs. To avoid splitting planks, drill pilot holes for nails, countersink screws in wood, and predrill screw holes in composite. Choose zinc-coated or other corrosion-resistant fasteners, and use the right fasteners for composites. Also consider hidden fasteners or systems that hide the attachment. Before staining, pressure-wash or brush the old surface with a cleaning solution or mix 1 quart bleach and 3 quarts water. Use as many coats as the maker recommends. And be sure it's at least 50° F from the time stain is applied until it dries completely.
