Natural materials

Cotton

The wide range of cotton fabrics includes canvas, chintz, corduroy, denim, gabardine, jersey, lace, muslin, organdy, percale, poplin, seersucker, ticking, and voile. Cotton wrinkles easily and can shrink, but it irons well and is not vulnerable to moths. Cotton-polyester fabric combines qualities of both cotton and polyester in different proportions according to purpose and manufacturer. It's more wrinkle-resistant than cotton and breathes better than polyester, so it's more comfortable. But it can pill and is more likely to stain than cotton or polyester alone. Cotton fabrics are usually washable, and you can dry-clean them, but read care instructions on labels carefully. Unless a garment or other item made from cotton is "preshrunk," it might emerge from the wash several sizes smaller if you use anything but cool water. Wash cotton-polyester on a permanent-press setting. Wash similar colors together, especially reds and other darks because cotton tends to lose its color in water. Chlorine bleach is safe for white cottons, but use color-safe bleach on dyed cottons.

To maintain shape, it's best to air-dry cotton on a line, but if you must use a clothes dryer, set the machine for air drying or very low heat. Use a permanent-press setting for cotton-polyester garments, turning them inside out to reduce pilling. Since 100 percent cotton is not easily scorched, you can press it with an iron set to high. Sometimes 100 percent cotton fabric is treated with a wrinkle-resistant finish.

Linen

Made from the stems of the flax plant, linen is similar in many ways to cotton. But it is not as strong or resilient and doesn't hold dyes as well. Still, it is pretty durable, and its appearance and "feel" improve with laundering. Linen-polyester is a blend often used in tablecloths, napkins, and place mats.

Some linens—most commonly drapery, upholstery, and decorative fabrics—may be dry-cleaned only. Linens that have been chemically treated for wrinkle-resistance may withstand warm-water washing. Follow the instructions on the care label. Before washing colored linen, be sure to test for colorfastness. If possible, dry white linens in the sun to help them stay white. Iron linen while damp; wrinkle-resistant linen might not need frequent ironing.

Silk

Silk thread, secreted from the larva of a moth, is the strongest natural fiber. It usually is wrinkle-resistant and elastic, holds shape well, and is cool and light in hot weather. Sunlight can weaken the fabric and fade the color. When the natural gum is not cleaned from the fiber, it's called raw silk. Shantung, pongee, and tussah are all unevenly woven silks and are usually not dyed. A few special silk fabrics—such as crepe, chiffon, organza, voile, georgette, grosgrain, moiré, taffeta, and satin—are used for evening wear. Since perfume, strong deodorant, and perspiration can damage silk fibers, always clean your silk garments after wearing them.

Most care labels recommend dry-cleaning only since some silk dyes will dissolve in water, causing "bleeding" and color transfer. You can hand-wash some unlined silk items in lukewarm water using dishwashing liquid or another mild soap, or machine-wash them using a gentle cycle. Never use chlorine bleach on silk--use color-safe bleach only. And do not use laundry detergent on nonwashable silk.

If the care label recommends hand-washing, test for colorfastness by washing a small, inconspicuous area first. Knead the garment gently in clear water to rinse, then hang and let air-dry. Store silk in a dark place because sunlight can weaken the fabric. Do not try to spot-clean stains, which can weaken the fabric and cause permanent marks.

Wool

Wool retains color well. Most wool is water-repellent and wrinkle-, stain-, and soil-resistant. Types of wool include alpaca (from alpaca goats), angora (angora rabbits), camel hair (camels), cashmere (Asian goats), lamb's wool, llama, mohair (angora goats), and pashmina (Himalayan capra goat). Wool fabrics include jersey, gabardine, crepe, twills, and broadcloth.

Dry-clean all wool garments, but check your item's care label before hand- or machine-washing. "Dry-clean only" means just that—no wet washing. You can carefully hand-wash some garments in cold water with a mild wool-washing product. Clean machine-washable wools on a gentle cycle. Do not use laundry detergent on nonwashable wools. Also, avoid soaking or agitating woolen items for extended periods of time. To loosen dirt on items that are lightly or moderately soiled, soak them for 10 minutes or so. Badly soiled items might have to be soaked a bit longer.

Turn a washable wool garment (one that does not contain mohair or angora) inside out before hand-washing. Wash carefully in cold water with a mild wool-washing product. Do not wring wool items. Instead, lay hand-washed garments on a dry towel and then roll up the towel to remove excess moisture. Unroll the towel, remove the garment, and lay it flat to dry on a new towel so it will retain its shape.

Machine-washed wool garments should also be dried flat. Place them in a dryer only if the care label permits machine drying. However, you might want to forgo machine drying altogether. In Consumer Reports tests, machine drying damaged some sweaters made of machine-washable wool.

Don't press wool with a dry iron—use the wool/steam setting. To avoid an undesirable shine, iron the garment inside out or use a pressing cloth.

Finally, follow these special care suggestions for your wool items:

• Store knits folded on shelves.
• Hang other wool garments on shaped or padded hangers. In most cases, wrinkles will flatten out in 24 hours and garments will return to original shape. To hasten the process, hang the item in a steamy bathroom.
• Use a brush to remove soil from the surface of suits, and a damp sponge for knits and more delicate fabrics.
• If you are caught in the rain or snow, dry your wool garment at room temperature and away from a heat source.
• Dry-clean wool before storing it for the season.